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A stone-clad koi pond and burbling waterfall confronts you upon entering the space. Enclosed bamboo booths trail off into an interior decorated with pottery and other elements, intended to evoke the eponymous mountain retreat. But far from mounting a menu obsessed with the rural or even the urban food of Sichuan, the bill of fare is an eclectic document. In addition to Sichuan standards and Sichuan-themed inventions, it borrows dishes from other regions, leaping from Hunan to Dongbei to Beijing to Hong Kong. In 2004, on the same stretch of Roosevelt, Cheng Ying Wu opened Little Pepper with a similar peppercorn-intensive agenda, plus novel dishes like peppercorn-dusted french fries. When I reviewed it for the Village Voice in 2012, it was the most spice-intensive Sichuan food I’d ever seen in the city.
Dining ambiance of restaurant
From then to the present, there came to be many new Sichuan spots in Elmhurst; Little Neck, Queens; Midtown Manhattan; in the vicinity of Columbia and NYU; and many, many more in Sunset Park. But the largest concentration has been in Flushing, where the number of restaurants and stalls featuring the cuisine is edging up toward 30, by my count. Wu Liang Ye and Grand Sichuan both opened in the late ’90s, growing into mini-chains.
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There are Sichuan standards, too, including twice-cooked pork, kung pao shrimp, and a ma po tofu ($10.95) that manages to taste better than any other with its silky tofu, earthy fermented bean paste, and daring oiliness. When it wants to, Mountain Szechuan can serve straight-up Sichuan, and it doesn’t stint on the peppercorns. The signature dish at Szechuan Mountain House is liang yi pork belly, Zhu’s modernized take on a traditional Chinese dish.
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The general onslaught of green chiles, hot red oil, and dried cayenne peppers has increased as well. The mapo ($10.95) was also totally up to snuff, semi-soft cubes in an earthy and oily broth with ground Sichuan peppercorns thrown on top, and not so much meat that it seized the spotlight from the curd. The meal ended agreeably with a small bowl of sweet mung bean soup, and we were once again out in the hurly burly of St Mark’s, marveling at the location. Other hard-to-find Sichuan dishes on the menu include Qian Jiang-style chicken giblets with pickled pepper and mala chicken stew. Szechuan Mountain House also features offal like pig intestine, tripe, beef tongue, kidney, chicken giblets, curdled blood, and fish maw. There is also a wide variety of vegetables, as well as the popular golden baked salted corn kernels with salted egg yolk, which tastes like creamy, buttery, elevated popcorn, and an expansive vegetarian menu.
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Peanuts are introduced to the usual ox tongue and tripe in chile oil, adding crunch to the slipperiness. Zhu says that they take great care in the selection of peppercorns, all of which are grown in Sichuan. It is not out of the ordinary to use more than 20 different kinds of spices for a particular dish.
Szechuan House
Start your culinary journey with their mouth-watering appetizers, such as the crispy and succulent Peking Duck or the flavorful Shrimp Dumplings. For the main course, indulge in their signature dish, the Whole Sizzling Catfish, which is cooked to perfection and served with a delicious house-made sauce. Vegetarians will also delight in their wide variety of plant-based options, such as the Stir-Fried Tofu with Mushrooms and Bok Choy. Opening on an interior courtyard of a new shopping and hotel complex off Prince Street, Szechuan Mountain House was an instant hit among well-heeled dating couples out for an evening of innovative food in a romantic atmosphere. It grabbed the second-floor space formerly occupied by Grand Sichuan, itself an early advocate of the Sichuan peppercorns that have become ubiquitous in the neighborhood. It offers customized, individual portions, making it a solution for people who want to eat Sichuan food but don’t want to go with a group.
Szechuan Mountain House offers popular Sichuan favorites like mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork, and kung pao shrimp, as well as classic Sichuan dishes seldom seen on menus in the U.S. Diners will be surprised by the Yibin-style ran noodles, also known as burning noodles, which are chewy, dry noodles that are flavorful, spicy, and salty from cardamine bean sprouts and roasted nut powder. The name “burning noodles” comes from the fact that traditional cooking methods add lard and chile oil to the noodles, which can be ignited without the use of water. At the same time, our old-guard Midtown establishments like Szechuan Gourmet, Café China, and Savour Sichuan have thrived, especially with the lunch crowd from nearby office buildings. In Flushing food courts, innumerable stalls popped up, peddling Sichuan fare at budget prices configured as noodle soups or faddish dry hot pots.
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The broth was milky and sour, and heat was provided by several types of pickled chiles, which also lent tartness. In the middle of the bowl was a bright red cherry pepper, such as one might find in an Italian restaurant. The signature fried rice is ramified with mustard greens, while a dish of fried lotus roots and celery provides a spectacular snap that you can hear as diners around the table attack it, with a subtle flavor that you’ll dream of that evening. But perhaps nothing points to the mass-market appeal of a food more than the fast-casualization of a cuisine. Indeed, New York City recently got a crop of fast-casual joints, like Greenwich Village’s Peppercorn Kitchen and Chelsea’s Bang Chengdu Street Kitchen.
Review and information for Szechuan Mountain House 川山甲
The former concentrates on mala tang, which are spicy mini hot pots, while the latter, configured as a hawker food court with carts, serves noodles, dumplings, pastries, and flatbread sandwiches called guokui, from the Sichuan street-food canon. That same year, Golden Shopping Mall food court opened in Flushing, resembling a funky Chinese bazaar. It’s famously where Xi’an Famous Foods got its start, but also the home of a Sichuan stall called Cheng Du Tian Fu (meaning something like Chengdu Heavenly Snacks). It concentrated on what might be termed more casual Sichuan eats, consisting of noodles and organ meats slicked with buckets of chile oil.
To learn more about the service, you can go to Szechuan Mountain House — 川山甲 is located at New York, NY 10003, 23 St Marks Pl. Zhi Min Zhu, who hails from Sichuan, is the culinary director of all the Szechuan Mountain House locations and is in charge of training all of the kitchen teams. Zhu has been working with Szechuan Mountain House since 2015 at the New York East Village location and has helped train the team at the new Rowland Heights location. The 5,000 square-foot space inside the Pearl Plaza was a feat years in the making.
The space sports similar designs to the NYC locations, with koi ponds, cascading waterfalls, bamboo groves, Chinese flower art, calligraphy, lanterns, and ceramics. Málà Project is a great Chinese restaurant in the East Village that specializes in dry pot. Szechuan Mountain House is open for indoor dining, outdoor dining, and takeout - and they also have a location in the East Village in case that’s more convenient to you. No meal at Restaurant Mountain House Manhattan 川山甲 would be complete without trying one of their decadent desserts, such as the Mochi Ice Cream or the Chocolate Lava Cake.
The occasion of the review was Little Pepper’s move to College Point, where it still thrives. Where Cantonese fare once reigned supreme, the louder flavors of the Sichuan province have become one of the most popular genres of Chinese food in New York. According to data from Yelp, New York had 46 restaurants categorized as Sichuan in 2012; in 2018, the number more than doubled, to 98. The original Szechuan Mountain House was one among a raft of modern and more expensive Sichuan restaurants to hit Flushing during the last three years. Eschewing the bursts of red and communal tables of their predecessors, these places flaunted stylish interiors with intimate seating. Some featured rustic elements meant to evoke Chinese villages; others were more East Village-y, with exposed concrete surfaces, deejays, and futuristic light fixtures.
Vegetarians and vegans now have a dedicated Sichuan restaurant in Spicy Moon, a restaurant that opened just this year in the East Village. Dan dan noodles are made with a faux meat, and wontons in chile oil com filled with vegetables instead of pork. Some other classics include Sichuan dishes like mao xue wang, a stew of ox tripe, duck blood, beef tongue, chicken gizzard and other offal simmered in a peppercorn and chile-laced broth. The crispy free-range laziji chicken is stir-fried with dried chiles, dried Sichuan chile peppers, spicy bean paste, garlic, ginger, and topped with toasted sesame seeds and sliced spring onions.
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